Showing posts with label pattern making. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pattern making. Show all posts

Monday, November 11, 2013

Another Passenger (Or: How I Hired Yet Another Dud)


The Interview: 

I met my daughter at Alexis Nihon shopping mall and we waited for her there. She was twenty minutes late and launched into frazzled diatribe about all sorts of things within moments of us meeting. That, I am used to. What irked me was that, given the nature of some of topics, I had to ask my daughter to put her ear pĥones in. Should I have brought my thirteen-year-old to an interview? Yes. She is contemplating a career in fashion but, more to the point, it's my interview and I can, within reason, do what I want. I'm thinking I should bring Ava more often, actually. She's got a wicked deadpan stare and what people think they can say around a thirteen-year-old probably says a lot about them.

She brought samples. I liked them. I saw pictures of her work. I liked them. An acquaintance recommended her but, that should not have been a factor, given said person's personality and the fact that her "She knows her shit" was useless because this person can probably not even thread a machine. 

I have a few minor misgivings but I ignore them and hire her. I want to shoot before the leaves change colour and I'm excited about my new project!

Over the next few weeks, I assign three pieces to her: A pair of shots, a romper and a pair of pants. I ask her to make a pattern and a muslin of each. After some time, I schedule a fitting on a Monday and arrange to meet her on Friday, after work, so I have the week-end to go over what she's done and correct any mistakes.

The Second Meeting:

I ask her to meet me at the Second Cup at the train station. She was twenty minutes late. She sat down and dropped one small roll of paper on the table in between us. Within moments, I found out that this was the pattern for the shorts and that she had brought nothing else with her. she apparently spilled coffee all of the pants muslin right as she was leaving. I ask her where the pants pattern is and she gets really flustered and starts rambling again, this time about how she is almost forty and living in a room. She does, though, tell me that she had time to make herself a pair of shorts using my pattern. when I ask her where the romper is she says, "Oh, I haven't even looked at that". I pay her anyway because I want to be sure to have what I need on Monday.

The Third Meeting:

I cancel with my model because I don't trust my pattern maker. One of my best friends, Amanda, is over and, in addition to having measurements that are similar to that of the model's, we studied fashion together and she's been working in the industry since so she can help with this next meeting because I'm getting exasperated. Monday rolls around and Amanda I wait. And wait. Finally, Amanda has people she must meet so she leaves. The pattern maker is two hours late. She texts me saying she's late because her bike tire was almost flat. She shows up with nothing but the pants pattern and looks offended when I say I'm not paying her any more and that, had I been waiting around with a paid model, I would have deducted part of the model's fee from her pay. She vows to come back the next day with everything. As she leaves, she tells me she probably shouldn't have stopped at her friend's place on the way. I'm all out of "wtf"s at this point.

The Fourth Meeting:

She's over an hour late but I'm at home with Amanda so I don't care as much. She shows up and has two of the muslin with her. Her muslin is more like burlap but what bothers me the most is that she's off by a lot on the shorts. Like, over an inch on the waist. I pay her and tell her I want the corrections in two weeks. the only reason she didn't babble senselessly about how her life is a mess, this time, is that, when she's not trying on clothing, Amanda is pacing in the kitchen, behind me, and deadpanning the woman.

The Fifth Meeting:

Three weeks later, she drops the corrections off at my work and I ask her to make the romper in the upcoming week.

Online:

In the meantime, my friend (and the ex she bitched about at her interview) posts a Breaking Bad spoiler on his facebook. I call him on it, nicely but firmly. She jumps in out of nowhere and is incredibly rude. She says, "1) It's Wednesday, 2)It's the Internet and 3) The boy in Boys Don't Cry is actually a girl. At this point, Before this, I had been thinking that I could maybe give her a few samples to sew, just so we could get to the shoot but, after this, the bitch was fired.

The Sixth Meeting:

She brings me the romper pattern and, despite me having asked her for them, none of the other muslins (I had told her not to make on for the romper).

After two weeks of putting it off, she sends me some wrecked muslins by asking my friend (the aforementioned ex) to drop them off at my place when he comes by to pick my up for a week-end trip we had planned. To make matters worse, he waits until we've been gone for two days before telling me, claiming that he had wanted to avoid "weirdness". Jesus.

I must admit that I let all of this get to be and I've fallen about two months behind, which is terrible, but salvageable. This week I will hire another pattern maker (she has twenty years experience and can use PAD Systems) for some of the more complicated pieces and get back on the horse.


Thursday, August 22, 2013

My Production Crew Karma Must Change (Or: Man, Do I Hope Things Work Out With This Pattern Maker)





I've already touched upon some f the following in my Roots series but I have had phenomenal bad luck when it comes to hiring pattern and sewing help in Montreal. Phenomenal. A part of me thinks that this may be due to some of the things that happened with me very first crew.

In 2003, when I was twenty-three, I created a cybergoth/rivethead line and I had a fantastic crew of three to help me make the patterns and assemble the clothing. at the time, I was still self-taught so they were actually more knowledgeable than I was and, because they believed in me and in what I was doing, they worked for free. I was able to give them each an envelope with some bonus money it in at one point but that was it. Despite several hiccups, I put on a fashion show at Foufs, in front of a packed house and most people loved it. I was young and the single mom of two babies at that point, though, and the reaction to the show made me panic. Instead of producing the clothing and moving forward, I hid and didn't design anything for a few years, dropping my crew on its collective head and feeling ashamed for quite some time.

I get it now but it was hard for me to swallow that failure for years afterward. Once in a while I tell myself that that move was what created the shit karma I have had when it comes to pattern makers.

1. The Story Teller and her friend

At the beginning of 2005, I hired someone who convinced me to hire her friend. I'd seen girl number one around at parties and the only thing I knew about her is that she was semi-stalking one of my friends. Desperate times, though. I hired her anyway.

To make a long story short, girl number one missed almost every meeting we had, coming up with a more outlandish story each time and then, when I passed by her place to pick up clothing for a shoot, I didn't take the time to check the quality of the garments before paying her. I got home and discovered that the most of the seams were crooked and non of it had been assembled with care. It was sloppy work and I was stuck with samples I would have to camouflage in the shoot and could most certainly not sell afterward.

Girl number two wanted work right away so I asked her to make a batch of ties while I finished up work with number one. She handed me a bag of twisted up bits of sewn fabric that looked like they might have been ties at some point in time and the proceeded to charge me for ten hours of work. I refused to pay her for the garbage I had been handed and she actually filed a complaint with the provincial labour board. Because she had never bothered to call me after tie number one to let me know that she couldn't handle making them, I ended up winning.

2. The Swimsuit Massacre

I studied fashion design at Collège Lasalle and then, a couple of years later, designed a few swimsuits and planned a shoot. I hired someone who was about ten years older than me, had tons of experience and was desperate for work. She had a cross stitch machine and showed me samples of her work so I didn't see a problem. Our meetings went well and communication was great, in general. She got a full-time job about a week before my shoot and tried to push back the deadline. I told her this was impossible and that the pieces had to be done on time. It was only three swimsuits, after all!

The night before the shoot, I cabbed out to a café on the Plateau, met with this woman, gave her an envelope of cash and left with a sports bag containing the samples and patterns for the three suits. I had yet to learn from my past mistakes and so I didn't even look at the work before leaving. I know, I know (now).

I went out for a drink with a friend, went home, woke up the next morning and started pulled the first piece out of the bag. I pulled the other two out. Then I sat down and cried.

Thankfully, I worked with a photographer and models who were very understanding. The crotch width of each piece was more suitable for a five-year-old girl's swimsuit than for a grown woman's and models kept having to stand in such a way that they could inconspicuously hold the bust in place. the last swimsuit we shot was a disaster. There were gaping holes where there should have been seams and the seams were very crooked. I was so lucky to work with a woman I had actually gone to school with and who convinced me that we could at least get a few promo shots with the shoot.

Here are two excessively camouflaged shots of the worst bathing suit in the line:




3. The Swimmer

Not long after the swimsuit fiasco, I hired someone to fix the mess the previous pattern maker had made. she was very young but had studied fashion design and, being a professional swimmer herself, was quite interested in the designs. She took my green leopard fabric, one of my patterns and disappeared.

4. Madame AWOL

I interviewed this woman in a Verdun café. She seemed together and excited about working with me so I hired her. I assigned two pairs of shorts and two blouses to her. She made the patterns, the  muslin samples. We had a fitting and everything went really well. I couldn't believe that I'd finally found someone with whom I could work. She insisted on a second fitting so I asked her to go ahead and make second muslin samples. She disappeared. This time, at least, she didn't have any of my patterns or fabric. Just more money down the drain.

5. Now

And this brings us to now. I hired a girl who really seems to know her shit and we have a lot of friends in common so I know she can't disappear (I can't believe that had to be a factor but it was!). Communication has been great and I'm meeting her tomorrow to pick up the first muslin samples. I have a fitting on Monday and my fingers are crossed! If this doesn't work, I'm not supporting local contractors anymore. I will outsource everything to NYC and finally see some finished products.

What helps is that, this time around, I'm busting my ass too so I'm guaranteed to have pieces for the shoot, whether or not things go well with this pattern maker. There is also the fact that I have finally learned from my lessons and will be double-checking the hell out of everything from now on!

Top photo source: 101fashiontoday,wordpress.com
 
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